A review of Balenciaga’s SS23 'The mud Show'.
Feel free to drag Balenciagas name through the mud. It seems to be working well for them.
The snow left over from Balenciaga’s viral winter 2022 show has finally melted into an unforgiving abyss of sludge. Perfect for luxury garments to stomp through – thought no one ever. Unless, of course you’re Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga’s creative director and leader of luxury fashion subversion. You're mistaken if you think that heavy-duty leather and skin-tight evening gowns belong on the streets. It looks way better in a massive artificial mud pit in the Parc des Expositions de Villepinte, just outside central Paris.
While many influencers, fashion fanatics and those lucky enough to get an invite to any Paris Fashion Week show. Strutting around the French capital seeing garment after garment, Balenciaga decided to challenge this – as it loves to do – and drag its starlet attendees down to Earth for the span of 75 scuffed-up models. Having already made a statement before the show started, Demna carried this on with the controversial Kanye West being the first to brave the mud bath. Stepping out in a leather space suit resembling design, the tone was set for this season's clothing: dark and durable.
Source: Balenciaga, Kanye enters the mud pit clad in thick leather.
Following Kanye came various levels of thrashed-about models, all sporting the same deadpan look. Oversized silhouettes, uncomfortably sized sneakers and kitsch baggage followed suit. Particular highlights came in the form of the giant glove bag, cuddly toy bag and, of course, the Lay’s clutch – referencing Demna’s use of the crisp brand packaging as a purse at a fashion show earlier this year. Bella Hadid also appears early in the show, flashing an array of false piercings and being consumed in an over-washed zip hoodie. False babies carried by a dad in ballet flats come next. Models appear unready and rushed – as if escaping something but, of course, still looking very Avant Garde whilst they walk. Swirling scarfs, gripping male corsets, bedazzled gowns and flashes of colour appear. The apocalypse seems to either be subsiding or maybe getting more stylish, just in time for the glittery 3D-printed bubble clogs to splash through the puddles.
Source: Balenciaga, Bella Hadid is almost unrecognisable with faux piercing additions.
The last model to walk is terrifying. Black eyes, sleek bleached hair and a draping leather gown suitable for any fictional horror movie murderer. Said gown takes direct material from the famous “Le Cagole” bag featuring its key components: various zips, studs, dangling straps and a little heart-shaped mirror. Complete with block-like patent stompers and elbow-length gloves, the gown was a perfect cohesive close to what had been such a mystifying display.
Source: Balenciaga, The unnerving ‘Le Cagole’ gown closes the show.
The “Mud Show” may have seemed like just an enigmatic performance of modern-day high-end fashion with its ‘lost wallet’ invitation containing fake credit cards and forms of identification. But it was much more. The past winter 2022 show came just weeks after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, and Demna knows all about escaping war – having to do so in Georgia at ten years old. Some see fashion as escapism, and others as a way to reflect the real issues afflicting the world. That is why in the winter show, models were sent out in blizzarding conditions with trash bags; in this show, wet, earthy landslides with found objects turned into bags and babies carried with care (albeit silicone ones). No, these superstar models marching around in expensive clothing aren’t going to solve any conflict, but they can bring it to the forefront of design and remind people of what horrors are out there and what we should all be doing to help.
⭑⭑⭑⭑⭑ Balenciaga only gets better and better with each runway show, so has to be given five stars. Extreme climate settings are so much trendier than a red carpet.