We tried Lisbon’s highest-rated vegetarian Francesinha and it was glorious

Source: Jonathan Black, Vegetarian Francesinha

Francesinha is not for the faint of heart; the behemoth dish is the sandwich to end all sandwiches. The Portuguese speciality comprises bread stuffed with an array of meats, then topped with cheese and a fried egg. For good measure, it is then fortified by a wall of fries and doused with a spicy gravy, which forms a delectable moat around its moist confines.

The dish originated in Porto, northern Portugal, in the 1950s and has been attributed to restaurateur Daniel David de Silva. De Silva had lived in France and Belgium and wanted to create a version of croque-monsieur that would complement the Portuguese palette. Upon his return to his native city, he debuted his creation at the restaurant ‘A Regaleira’ in the Rua do Bonjardim district of the city. The dish would become a hit with the locals, spanning an array of incarnations, including popular seafood versions, and would rapidly spread across the country.

While Porto remains the spiritual home of Francesinha, the sandwich has become a national obsession, with hordes of restaurants across Portugal claiming to have perfected the ultimate recipe. Nowadays, many establishments can even be found selling vegetarian and vegan versions of the traditionally meat-laden dish – much to the consternation of Francesinha purists. On a recent trip to Lisbon CityLive took the plunge and sampled one such meat-free incarnation at the city’s highest-rated Francesinha restaurant.

Located a five-minute walk from the city’s Cais Do Sodre station on its waterfront, Marco has become the mecca for those seeking the best Francesinha in town. Its moderately priced menu (with most dishes coming in at under 15 euros) features a sleuth of Francesinha options for the decerning customer. We opted for the ‘Classic Vegetarian’ option – the closest recipe to de Silva’s original dish.

Veteran vegetarians and vegans alike can attest that meat substitutes often leave a lot to be desired – need we mention the aptly named seitan? However, Marco’s meat-free patty and sausages were some of the best we have sampled. Combined with their secret, tangy sauce, their taste is virtually indistinguishable from the real deal.

Not only were we able to sample an authentic slice of Portuguese cuisine, but we were also able to do so at a bargain price. The gargantuan dish, which could easily feed two people, only cost 13 euros. Which, for a western European capital city, is an absolute steal. For those who do not eat meat and are looking to sample Francesinha, Marco is an absolute must for your Lisbon itinerary. And, if you somehow manage to devour the whole thing, we firmly salute you.